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Lhotse Expedition

Height: 27,939 feet (8,516 meters)
Location: Khumbu, Nepal/Tibet, Asia
Lat/Lon: 27.9667°N, 86.9333°E

Overview

Mount Lothse Dynamic MountainLhotse stands at 8516m, making it the fourth highest mountain in the world. It is situated at the border of Tibet and Nepal. Its long east-west crest is located immediately south of Mount Everest, and the summits of the two mountains are connected by the South Col, a vertical ridge that never drops below 8,000m. Lhotse has three summits: Lhotse Main 8516m, Lhotse Shar 8383m and Lhotse Middle or East 8413m.

Sometimes mistakenly Lhotse has been identified as the south peak of the Everest massif. No serious attention was given to climbing Lhotse until Everest had finally been ascended. Lhotse first climbed in 1956 as an alternative route towards the summit of Everest.

Lhotse Main was first climbed in 1956 by Ernst Reiss and Fritz Luchsinger who were part of a Swiss expedition. Lhotse Shar was first climbed on December 5, 1979 by Sepp Mayerl and Rolf Walter by taking the SE-ridge. It was not until 2001 that Lhotse Middle was conquered by the Russian Expedition (See below for details).

The Lhotse Face/Route
The western flank of Lhotse is known as the Lhotse Face. Any climber bound for the South Col on Everest must climb this 1,125m (3,700ft) wall of glacial blue ice. This face rises at 40 and 50 degree pitches with the occasional 80 degree bulges. Two rocky sections called the Yellow Band and the Geneva Spur interrupt the icy ascent on the upper part of the face.

The south face is one of the most impressive walls in Himalayas. The first expedition from the south side was Yuogoslavian leading by A.Kunaver. They selected the left side of the wall but they manage to only get to 8100 meters. In 1985,1987 and 1989 three Polish expedition tried to climb the wall. The highest point they reach was 8300 meters. During the last expedition, Jerzy Kukuczka-the second person who climbed all 8000 meter peaks died during the attempt. Another expedition in 1989 lead by Reinhold Messner failed due to problems between members.

In 1990 Tomo Cesen said that he climbed the wall via Yugoslavian route. The climb caused much controversy because many climbers didn't believe that the wall, which was unclimbed by so many good climbers, was by climbed by single person. He later changed his mind claiming that he didn't reach the top but the summit ridge. However, public opinion is that he reached only about 7000 meters.

The south face was finally climbed in 1990 by Russian expedition few months after Cesen's climb. They describe the wall as impossible to be climbed by a single person.

When To Climb
As for all the Himalayan peaks there are two main seasons. Pre-monsoon season runs from April through May. Post monsoon season runs from late September through October.

Day by Day Itinerary:

Day 01: Arrival Kathmandu, transfer to Hotel
Day 02: Prepared Expedition
Day 03: Briefing in Ministry of Tourism
Day 04: Fly to Lukla & trek to Phakding -camp or Lodge
Day 05: Phakding - Namche - Camp or Lodge
Day 06: Rest day Namche Bazaar Camp - Lodge
Day 07: Namche - Thyangboche, Camp or lodge
Day 08: Thyanboche - Pheriche, camp or Lodge
Day 09: Pheriche - Lobuche, camp or Lodge
Day 10: Lobuche -Base Camp, Preparation, camp
Day 11-38 CLIMBING PERIOD OF MT. LHOTSE . 8516m.
Day 39: Base Camp Preparation, camp or Lodge
Day 40: Base camp - Pheriche Camp/Lodge
Day 41: Periche - Namche - lodge
Day 42: Namche - Lukla - lodge
Day 43: Lukla - Kathmandu fly
Day 44: Kathmandu
Day 45: Final departure

Cost: Ask for Quotation
Download for Booking Form

Cost includes:

  1. Permit Fee {Royalty} Annapurna 4th
  2. 5 nights accomodation with bed & breakfast at 3 Star Hotel.
  3. Drive to Besisahar & Beni - Pokhara & Kathmandu.
  4. Full board trekking with lodge & Food for BC Expedition period
  5. Porter Besishar to BC & while back
  6. Equipment: trekking equipment for BC, 1 tent for 2 persons, dining tent, toilet tent, table and chares, Mattresses
  7. All kitchen equipment for BC
  8. Staff allowance, Liaison office allowances ,equipment allowances, flight ticket, insurance
  9. Annapurna Conservation fee.
  10. All transfer airport-hotel-airport
  11. Staff: Base camp Guide, Cook, Kitchen helper
  12. All necessary taxes
  13. Agency service charge

Cost does not include:

  1. PERSONAL equipment for climbing
  2. Personal Insurance of Climber
  3. Climbing food, Gas & stove.
  4. Lunch & dinner in Kathmandu
  5. Nepal visa, International flight ticket
  6. Emergency Rescue evacuation by helicopter
  7. Walki Takie permit
  8. Radio Permit
  9. Climbing Sherpa,
  10. Bar Bill & Beverages.
  11. Personal expenses etc.

Mountaineering royalty fee

Realising mountaineering as the back-bone of Nepal's tourism industry, the Government of Nepal has made following decisions in a bid to make mountaineering royalty fee competitive amongst the neighbouring countries, promote mountains lying in remote and less privileged areas, and create environment to transform the seasonal mountaineering business operational round the year and materialize the concept of 'Nepal for all Seasons':

  1. Provide discount of 50% in Winter and Summer Season and 75% in Autumn Season keeping intact the Royalty Fee in Spring Season.
  2. Increase the number of climbing member in an expedition from 12 to 15.
  3. Provide 100% discount on Royalty Fee for mountains located in Mid and Far Western Development Regions for 5 years.
  4. Implement Incremental Royalty Break-down System (IRDS), a system under which permit fee increases with the increase in number of climbing members, on all mountains instead of lump sum per expedition having climbing members seven or less than that.
  1. Name of Mountain: Everest (8,848m)
    Climbing Route: South East Ridge ( Normal Route )

No. Of Climbers

Mountaineering Royalty Fee (In US $)

Spring

Autumn

Winter/Summer

 

One Climber

25,000

12,500

6,250

Two Climbers

40,000

20,000

10,000

Three Climbers

48,000

24,000

12,000

Four Climbers

56,000

28,000

14,000

Five Climbers

60,000

30,000

15,000

Six Climbers

66,000

33,000

16,500

Seven Climbers

70,000

35,000

17,500

Per Extra Climber
(One Expedition Team has 15 members in maximum)

10,000

5,000

2,500

  1. Name of Mountain: Everest (8,848m)
    Climbing Route: All Routes Except South East Ridge ( Normal Route )

No. Of Climbers

Mountaineering Royalty Fee (In US $)

Spring

Autumn

Winter/Summer

 

One Climber

15,000

7,500

3,750

Two Climbers

21,000

10,500

5,250

Three Climbers

27,000

13,500

6,750

Four Climbers

33,000

16,500

8,250

Five Climbers

39,000

19,500

9,750

Six Climbers

45,000

22,500

11,250

Seven Climbers

50,000

25,000

12,500

Per Extra Climber
(One Expedition Team has 15 members in maximum)

10,000

5,000

2,500

  1. Height of Mountain: All Mountains above 8,000 m (except Everest)

No. Of Climbers

Mountaineering Royalty Fee (In US $)

Spring

Autumn

Winter/Summer

 

One Climber

5,000

2,500

1250

Two Climbers

6,000

3,000

1500

Three Climbers

7000

3,500

1,750

Four Climbers

8000

4000

2000

Five Climbers

8500

4250

2125

Six Climbers

9000

4500

2250

Seven Climbers

10000

5,000

2500

Per Extra Climber
(One Expedition Team has 15 members in maximum)

1500

1000

500

  1. Height of Mountain: All Mountains above 7,501m to 7999m

No. Of Climbers

Mountaineering Royalty Fee (In US $)

Spring

Autumn

Winter/Summer

 

One Climber

2,000

1000

500

Two Climbers

2400

1200

600

Three Climbers

2800

1400

700

Four Climbers

3200

1600

800

Five Climbers

3600

1800

900

Six Climbers

3800

1900

950

Seven Climbers

4000

2000

1000

Per Extra Climber
(One Expedition Team has 15 members in maximum)

500

400

200

  1. Height of Mountain: All Mountains above 7,000m to 7500m

No. Of Climbers

Mountaineering Royalty Fee (In US $)

Spring

Autumn

Winter/Summer

 

One Climber

1500

750

375

Two Climbers

1800

900

450

Three Climbers

2100

1050

525

Four Climbers

2400

1200

600

Five Climbers

2600

1300

650

Six Climbers

2800

1400

700

Seven Climbers

3000

1500

750

Per Extra Climber
(One Expedition Team has 15 members in maximum)

400

250

150

  1. Height of Mountain: All Mountains above 6501m to 6999m

No. Of Climbers

Mountaineering Royalty Fee (In US $)

Spring

Autumn

Winter/Summer

 

One Climber

1000

500

250

Two Climbers

1200

600

300

Three Climbers

1400

700

350

Four Climbers

1600

800

400

Five Climbers

1800

900

450

Six Climbers

1900

950

475

Seven Climbers

2000

1000

500

Per Extra Climber
(One Expedition Team has 15 members in maximum)

300

200

100

  1. Name of Mountain: Amadablam (6812m)

No. Of Climbers

Mountaineering Royalty Fee (In US $)

Spring/Autumn

Winter/Summer

 

One Climber

1000

500

Two Climbers

1200

600

Three Climbers

1400

700

Four Climbers

1600

800

Five Climbers

1800

900

Six Climbers

1900

950

Seven Climbers

2000

1000

Per Extra Climber
(One Expedition Team has 15 members in maximum)

300

200

  1. Height of Mountain: 6,500m or Below

No. Of Climbers

Mountaineering Royalty Fee (In US $)

Spring

Autumn

Winter/Summer

 

One Climber

400

200

100

Two Climbers

500

250

125

Three Climbers

600

300

150

Four Climbers

700

350

175

Five Climbers

800

400

200

Six Climbers

900

450

225

Seven Climbers

1000

500

250

Per Extra Climber
(One Expedition Team has 15 members in maximum)

200

100

50

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