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Makalu Expedition
  • Expedition in Nepal
  • Expedition in Nepal
  • Expedition in Nepal
  • Expedition in Nepal
  • Expedition in Nepal
  • Expedition in Nepal
  • Expedition in Nepal
  • Expedition in Nepal
  • Expedition in Nepal
  • Expedition in Nepal

Height: 27,765 feet (8,463 meters)
Location: Makalu-Barun, Nepal/Tibet, Asia
Lat/Lon: 27.8899°N, 87.0884°E

Overview

Glory of the MakaluMakalu, the world's fifth highest peak in the world rising to 27,765 feet (8,463 meters). This beautiful and impressive massive is situated just 14 miles east of Everest in the Khumbu region. Its size alone is impressive, but its perfect pyramid structure with four sharp ridges makes this mountain all the more spectacular. Makalu is actually a double peak. The subsidary peak rising just north of the main summit connected by a saddle is called Chomolonzo (25,650 ft.) It is interesting to note that the summit ridge is the demarcation point indicating the border between Nepal on the Southern side and Tibet to the North.

Makalu A brif ViewThe name of the mountain was probably taken from the Sanskrit word Maha-Kala, which means Big Black and is a by-name of Shiva - one of the most important gods of Hinduism. Shiva is sometimes an evil, cruel destroyer but at other times he tends to be gentle and kind-hearted. The mountain has another name in the local dialect - Kumba karna, which means The Giant.

Makalu has proved to be a challenging climb, as only five of its first sixteen attempts were successful. To date, there have been a total of 206 successful ascents of Makalu and a total of 22 fatalities. There have been no known winter ascents of this peak.

Prior to its first ascent in 1955, it was admired and studied by several Everest expeditions, but like a lot of other giants in the Khumbu region, it was not attempted until the summit of Everest was first ascended in 1954.

Makalu West Face
It is very adventurous route to climb because it is a little bit dangerous as well. The 5 attempts were made before climbing this Mount Makalu Mountain ; then only it was succeeded in the final.

The West Face was successfully summit in 1997. The Russian expedition had taken the route of this West Face of mount Makalu, leaded by Sergey Efimov and climbed the top on 21st of May via the most difficult route. The last part of the route had gone on Parago ridge. Alexei Bolotov, Yuri Ermachek, Dmitri Pavlenko, Igor Bugachevski and Nikolai Jiline had climbed on the top of mount Makalu at this time For this ascent they were awarded the "Gold ice-axe".

The routes are of 4 parts:
The bottom part starts from the base of the West Face at 5,800 meters and climbs to the hanging ice-fall at 6,100 meters to the right part of the ice-fall. The second part extends from the plateau above the ice-fall along 35 to 45 degree elevation's rock up to the 6,500 meters high. The next section is an ice-rock wall, 50 to 55 degrees steep & that extends to 7,400 meters height. The last final section begins 70 to 75 degree elevation's rock pillar, which leads to the west ridge at 8,000 meters height till to the top of the summit.

Ropes are typically fixed from 5800m to 6100m and from 6500 m to 7500m. Camps established by the Russian Team were at the following locations.

The French Route on the West Pillar is an aesthetically stunning line that has been seldom attempted. It is an exceedingly difficult, a very steep pillar that was first successfully ascended in 1971. The crux of the line comes at approximately 7,600m in the area of the Seignior Wall.

The first US team to summit was in 1980, they summit via this West Pillar Route . The team was made up of Jim States , John Roskelley, Kim Momb and Chris Kopczynski. They summit 2 members of the team and put 2 members within 150 feet. They summit without the use of oxygen or Sherpa support.

Day by Day Itinerary:

Day 01: Arrival Kathmand & Trasfer to hotel
Day 02: prepare for expedition
Day 03: Briefing in Ministry  of tourism  prepare for expedition
Day 04: Fly to Tumlingtar - camping
Day 05: Tumlingtar - Kuwapani
Day 06. Kuwapani - Chichila
Day 07: Chichila - Num
Day 08: Num- Seduwa
Day 09: Seduwa - Tashigaun
Day 10: Tashigaun - Khongma La (Danda)
Day 11: Khongmadanda - Mumfuk
Day 12: Mumfuk -Yangle Kharak
Day 13: Yangle Khark -Merak
Day 14: Merak -Sersung (half day rest) for acclimatize
Day 15: Sersung - Makalu Base camp
Day 16-47: Climbing Period for Makalu (8463m)
Day 48: Makalu BC - Mumbuck
Day 49: Mumbuck - Khongma La (Danda)
Day 50: Khongma La - Seduwa
Day 51: Seduwa - Chichila
Day 52: Chichila - Tumlingtar
Day 53: Tumlingtar - Kathmandu by flight
Day 54: Kathmandu
Day 55: Final Departure

Cost: Ask for Quotation
Download for Booking Form

Cost includes:

  1. Permit Fee {Royalty} Annapurna 4th
  2. 5 nights accomodation with bed & breakfast at 3 Star Hotel.
  3. Drive to Besisahar & Beni - Pokhara & Kathmandu.
  4. Full board trekking with lodge & Food for BC Expedition period
  5. Porter Besishar to BC & while back
  6. Equipment: trekking equipment for BC, 1 tent for 2 persons, dining tent, toilet tent, table and chares, Mattresses
  7. All kitchen equipment for BC
  8. Staff allowance, Liaison office allowances ,equipment allowances, flight ticket, insurance
  9. Annapurna Conservation fee.
  10. All transfer airport-hotel-airport
  11. Staff: Base camp Guide, Cook, Kitchen helper
  12. All necessary taxes
  13. Agency service charge

Cost does not include:

  1. PERSONAL equipment for climbing
  2. Personal Insurance of Climber
  3. Climbing food, Gas & stove.
  4. Lunch & dinner in Kathmandu
  5. Nepal visa, International flight ticket
  6. Emergency Rescue evacuation by helicopter
  7. Walki Takie permit
  8. Radio Permit
  9. Climbing Sherpa,
  10. Bar Bill & Beverages.
  11. Personal expenses etc.

Mountaineering royalty fee

Realising mountaineering as the back-bone of Nepal's tourism industry, the Government of Nepal has made following decisions in a bid to make mountaineering royalty fee competitive amongst the neighbouring countries, promote mountains lying in remote and less privileged areas, and create environment to transform the seasonal mountaineering business operational round the year and materialize the concept of 'Nepal for all Seasons':

  1. Provide discount of 50% in Winter and Summer Season and 75% in Autumn Season keeping intact the Royalty Fee in Spring Season.
  2. Increase the number of climbing member in an expedition from 12 to 15.
  3. Provide 100% discount on Royalty Fee for mountains located in Mid and Far Western Development Regions for 5 years.
  4. Implement Incremental Royalty Break-down System (IRDS), a system under which permit fee increases with the increase in number of climbing members, on all mountains instead of lump sum per expedition having climbing members seven or less than that.
  1. Name of Mountain: Everest (8,848m)
    Climbing Route: South East Ridge ( Normal Route )

No. Of Climbers

Mountaineering Royalty Fee (In US $)

Spring

Autumn

Winter/Summer

 

One Climber

25,000

12,500

6,250

Two Climbers

40,000

20,000

10,000

Three Climbers

48,000

24,000

12,000

Four Climbers

56,000

28,000

14,000

Five Climbers

60,000

30,000

15,000

Six Climbers

66,000

33,000

16,500

Seven Climbers

70,000

35,000

17,500

Per Extra Climber
(One Expedition Team has 15 members in maximum)

10,000

5,000

2,500

  1. Name of Mountain: Everest (8,848m)
    Climbing Route: All Routes Except South East Ridge ( Normal Route )

No. Of Climbers

Mountaineering Royalty Fee (In US $)

Spring

Autumn

Winter/Summer

 

One Climber

15,000

7,500

3,750

Two Climbers

21,000

10,500

5,250

Three Climbers

27,000

13,500

6,750

Four Climbers

33,000

16,500

8,250

Five Climbers

39,000

19,500

9,750

Six Climbers

45,000

22,500

11,250

Seven Climbers

50,000

25,000

12,500

Per Extra Climber
(One Expedition Team has 15 members in maximum)

10,000

5,000

2,500

  1. Height of Mountain: All Mountains above 8,000 m (except Everest)

No. Of Climbers

Mountaineering Royalty Fee (In US $)

Spring

Autumn

Winter/Summer

 

One Climber

5,000

2,500

1250

Two Climbers

6,000

3,000

1500

Three Climbers

7000

3,500

1,750

Four Climbers

8000

4000

2000

Five Climbers

8500

4250

2125

Six Climbers

9000

4500

2250

Seven Climbers

10000

5,000

2500

Per Extra Climber
(One Expedition Team has 15 members in maximum)

1500

1000

500

  1. Height of Mountain: All Mountains above 7,501m to 7999m

No. Of Climbers

Mountaineering Royalty Fee (In US $)

Spring

Autumn

Winter/Summer

 

One Climber

2,000

1000

500

Two Climbers

2400

1200

600

Three Climbers

2800

1400

700

Four Climbers

3200

1600

800

Five Climbers

3600

1800

900

Six Climbers

3800

1900

950

Seven Climbers

4000

2000

1000

Per Extra Climber
(One Expedition Team has 15 members in maximum)

500

400

200

  1. Height of Mountain: All Mountains above 7,000m to 7500m

No. Of Climbers

Mountaineering Royalty Fee (In US $)

Spring

Autumn

Winter/Summer

 

One Climber

1500

750

375

Two Climbers

1800

900

450

Three Climbers

2100

1050

525

Four Climbers

2400

1200

600

Five Climbers

2600

1300

650

Six Climbers

2800

1400

700

Seven Climbers

3000

1500

750

Per Extra Climber
(One Expedition Team has 15 members in maximum)

400

250

150

  1. Height of Mountain: All Mountains above 6501m to 6999m

No. Of Climbers

Mountaineering Royalty Fee (In US $)

Spring

Autumn

Winter/Summer

 

One Climber

1000

500

250

Two Climbers

1200

600

300

Three Climbers

1400

700

350

Four Climbers

1600

800

400

Five Climbers

1800

900

450

Six Climbers

1900

950

475

Seven Climbers

2000

1000

500

Per Extra Climber
(One Expedition Team has 15 members in maximum)

300

200

100

  1. Name of Mountain: Amadablam (6812m)

No. Of Climbers

Mountaineering Royalty Fee (In US $)

Spring/Autumn

Winter/Summer

 

One Climber

1000

500

Two Climbers

1200

600

Three Climbers

1400

700

Four Climbers

1600

800

Five Climbers

1800

900

Six Climbers

1900

950

Seven Climbers

2000

1000

Per Extra Climber
(One Expedition Team has 15 members in maximum)

300

200

  1. Height of Mountain: 6,500m or Below

No. Of Climbers

Mountaineering Royalty Fee (In US $)

Spring

Autumn

Winter/Summer

 

One Climber

400

200

100

Two Climbers

500

250

125

Three Climbers

600

300

150

Four Climbers

700

350

175

Five Climbers

800

400

200

Six Climbers

900

450

225

Seven Climbers

1000

500

250

Per Extra Climber
(One Expedition Team has 15 members in maximum)

200

100

50

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